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Presented in three sequences attuned to seasonal needs and our modified lifestyles, the men’s wardrobe dialogues with the women’s collection through interplay between shapes, fabrics and tones. The chic nightwear can be worn in or out of the house and the great warmth of the quilted models shields us from the winter weather.
Enveloping pieces are central to the wardrobe, which features new silk pyjamas to wear in and out of the house, in solid colors or prints with curls of color and blurred plumage. The clean lines of military uniforms and work jackets serve as inspiration for the pieces’ structured, ample volumes: jackets with large sleeves and unlined coats with wide patch pockets at hip level. The color palette is natural—burnt orange, honey, greyish sky blue—with cotton and silk taking pride of place.
This theme takes cues from the structured silhouettes found in the urban style of 1960s England’s Mods and Rude Boys: a three-button wool suit, a button-down collar shirt with fine lapels, cigarette trousers, and broad military jackets to protect everything underneath. The revisited (neo)classical wardrobe cuts a neat and tidy figure—sophisticated but without affect. Trompe-l’oeil pieces such as a cardigan shirt and a turtleneck under a V neck, trousers without side seams or reinforcement stitching, a warm line of Shetland knits, and a series of quilted shirts in coated cotton and denim round out the wardrobe, which is presented in distinct, soft colors—saltpeter white and moss—along with a dash of aniline red.
The last theme’s wardrobe insulates us from the cold and wet. The silhouettes are compact and sturdy: a boxy jacket; thick wool work jackets such as a donkey jacket and pea coat; a large reversible parka lined with alpaca cotton that has a removable collar and a stowable hood; a sheepskin jacket; and a quilted bomber jacket. A light robe in alpaca wool and a granite pyjama set infuse the silhouettes with fresh indolence.
The shoe line echoes the tidy, comforting wardrobe, with a soft moccasin, and a light ballet flat. The boots have returned, as have the square-tipped derbies in lightly grained vegetal leather and the Chinese slipper, which has a new lugged rubber sole.
